Bodywork and prep can easily be the most frustrating and time-consuming part of any classic car restoration. But what if you could cut your sanding time in half and get better results? In this video, I’m sharing 5 professional body filler and prep tips that will drastically speed up your restoration. From the razor blade trick to getting razor-sharp body lines, these are the techniques that will save your shoulders and give you laser-straight panels.
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When you've sanded pretty flat,use your hammer to lightly tap down your high spots,because many times they are too high.If you tap them down,then do a light final coat of filler,it will block out perfect,and your high spots will be blended into the over all panel
I just subscribed to your YouTube channel. I like the way you that explain and show exactly what you are talking about.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your experience! Subscribed
Yep, i also stopped using sealers because of problems with metalics. Good tips. Thanks
I also just subscribed great channel! I assume the DTM epoxy is 2K.
best video yet! Great info
This was so informative!!! Thank you!!!
Very helpful thankyou 🙏
Great Video! 🫡 💪👍
Great information
It's not a hack if it's a "Billy Stix" block🤣🤣🤣.
Thanks for this , curious about using polyester high build over epoxy wet on wet ? I was letting epoxy thoroughly dry for 5 or 6 days then sand , then polyester high build . Alot of time wasted on sanding and waiting . I've read some guys have problems with this due to the epoxy never thoroughly drying, so turns into a paint fail later . Products are too expensive to waste doing things over due to failure , not to mention time wasted and pissed off people. Thoughts ?
Very valuable advice, thank you!
Milwaukee makes those blades with rounded corners
That’s some really great advice. I’ve got friends in the bodywork business but they’re always so busy, I don’t want to try to get them involved in my projects. I’ve done some pretty rough body work myself and your advice on epoxy, to high-build and then guidecoat, so you never get back to bare metal makes sense to me. “Metal high spots don’t sand” is a good concept to keep in mind. That’s where it clicked for me. I will be applying these tips to a 66 Mustang. Oh, just subscribed and I’m going to see if I can “hype” it too. This is the kind of content I want on my YouTube Feed.
Try Linear Blocks if you haven't. Panels will be much straighter than DuraBlocks.
good tips but you shouldn't be layering up polyester products over fresh 2K urethane. Use polyester or Vinylester primer over that epoxy if you want to capture that chemical bond during the epoxy's recoat window. They would work way better with your filler than the urethane. Save the urethane primer for your final blocking before paint.
Would there be any problems if you paited over pencil marks?
I didn’t know 2+4 blocks were bad, can someone tell me why ? I feel violated and dirty
Смотрю этих болдокрутов и понимаю .наши парни гораздо круче.