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I am using K&N replacement filter for more than 40 years. 5 years Golf GTI, 9 years BMW 325i, 4 years Mitsubishi Sigma, 8 years Jeep Wrangler and Grand Cherokee, 17 years Subaru Legacy 3.0 spec.b. and I never had any problem. The important thing is to follow exactly the cleaning and oiling instructions.
Your showing a mix of intake filters and cabin filters. Cabin filters will have nothing to do with your performance
Don't use a high flow air filter if you live in an area that's a bit dusty, idk why he didn't mention that
One thing you left out, using any of these mods that work to make more H.P. and using that increase in power, definitely shortens engine life.
Some that you missed. With the upgraded Radiator, you will also need additional oil/engine cooler. Tires and wheel upgrade is a must and should be one of the first mods you do. The better quality of tires makes the vehicle actually respond a lot better. Suspension and Sway Bars should also be apart of mod list. A miscellaneous one is if needed, a torque converter and possibly a wider throttle body
Yup. Replacing the cabin filters (repeatedly shown here) will add hp and smooth the idle
When I was in the Army, 1979-83, after driving a deuce and 1/2 the truck was left to "idle down" for 10-20 minutes to cool the super charger.
RIght off the hop, high flow air filters MAY increase HP but 1. Barely noticeable, 2. They also let more dirt into your engine. Skeptical right away.
More air in, less filtration.
First high flow air filters, could be wrong but the first clip is a pollen filter(uk) ....not a air filter.
Turbo timer is pretty much an indicator of where we are these days. In stead of backing off the throttle towards the end of the drive to let the turbo cool down we'll butcher a wire loom and run those risks and not drive the vehicle proper
Those high flow drop-in K&N filters do work, but not in all cars. So far, I've done it in two of my cars, a 2013 Impala 3.6 and a 2015 Camaro with the exact same engine. In the Impala, the difference was VERY noticeable. Throttle response and sound was probably the bigger improvements. MPG, might've improved, but it could've been a placebo effect. In the Camaro, there was virtually no difference. Same MPG, same throttle response (which on its own it feels way sharper than in the Impala) and not even change in sound. Both cars have the exact same LFX 3.6, but the main difference is in the stock air box. In the Impala, the air box and filter itself is very small, and restrictive. The Camaro already comes with a very large filter and free flowing intake tube. So yeah, don't really expect much difference. If your car already has a large airbox with filter with good airflow (on a small-medium engine), all you're going to do is spend $70 on a nice red filter. But hey, you can wash it, re-oil it and reuse it! Just be advised that the filter does require maintenance. Wash it every 10k miles and apply oil (sold in the K&N store). That oil is crucial, as it prevents particles going into the engine. If you don't, the design of the filter itself will let junk get in your engine.
Remember that when doing a CAI (Cold Air Intake) and a performance exhaust you need to get your car re-tuned, if you don't know how to do it properly find a place that can do it. Just with those 2 mods and a proper tune you can see some useful gains, the proper tune is doing most of the heavy lifting there but those 2 mods are proven to increase power & response you just need the tune to get the most out of them. I personally recommend to people all the time that if you plan to start modding your car, do the intake, exhaust, ignition system, and a tune all at the same time. You get a baseline dyno run, then install the mods, run another dyno run with no tune, mark the results, then tune it properly and look at the differences, you can also see fuel efficiency go UP IF you don't drive around like you have a giant block of lead for a foot.
Although more air to the engine is absolutely great for the car and will boost performance the issue with these high air flow filters is that they don’t filter enough small particles so you engine does get more dust in it which overtime can damage the engine.
To get the exhaust tone Really low, add two Thrush 27" glasspacks(welded together below the interior if possible) in the system to "replace" the resonater(s)(which is usually an inline muffler or "hollow" glasspack). Might add a little more weight, but the sound is Unearthly.
A high flow air filter will not improve long-term reliability. They let more are through by being less effective at filtering, which means larger particulates of dirt can get through.
As a retired motorcycle technician and machinist on mostly Japanese motorcycles and building performance street bikes and drag bikes I've had some experience with pump gas, race gas and octane boosters. I restored a 1980 GS1000ET Suzuki I bought for $200. It took me 18 months and $6,300 and doing 80% of the machining myself. In the summer I had to us 4 gallons of 93 octane pump gas "highest available" and 1 gallon VP low lead race gas to prevent detonation. In the winter down in south Florida I only had to run 1/2 VP race fuel. While out riding if I went on reserve I had no access to race gas so I couldn't run the bike hard because of detonation. I started experimenting with octane boosters and the only one I found that worked was Lucas in the red bottle. Lucas claimed that most other octane boosters only raise the octane by points of a point as mentioned in this video. I used 4 ounces to 5 gallons of 93 pump gas and had no detonation issues. I bought a an 8oz bottle of lucas, put 4 ounces when I filled up and kept the bottle in my tank bag incase I had to fill up again. Back then in the late 90's VP race fuel was about $8 a gallon and lucas was a lot cheaper, "I don't remember how much per bottle" I swear by lucas octane booster and it will be interesting to see in your video how well it performs.
I love the HVAC depictions for "high flow filters". If a high flow cabin filter makes my car faster... Im in!
You can definitely boost on a budget. As long as your AFRs are in a healthy range it is fine in low boost applications for most machines.
5:10 Cold Air Intakes (CAI) are not just about installing a larger high-flow air filter and an Enclosed Air-box (OEM/Aftermarket) with extension for CAI is needed, as Intake ‘Manifold Absolute Pressure’ (MAP) is vitally important for maintaining a consistent level of potential energy for combustion process of each cylinder to increase engine performance. By removing the OEM Air Box and/or not fitting an extension to enclosed air intake for colder air to pass through high-flow air filter: You will find that Intake MAP will be inconsistent, due to air turbulence/resonance (sound) in air intake from differences in ambient pressure/heat, and an imbalance of air density/pressure between air intake and intake manifold; thus, there being a reduction in engine performance.