My GMC C7000 dump truck has the infamous 8.2L Detroit diesel engine. Unfortunately. It's not a great engine, but for now it works, so it seems like I should try and keep it working for as long as possible. But diesel fuel is getting into the crankcase in large quantities and diluting the oil, which is going to ruin the engine once and for all. Where is it coming from? Let's try and figure this out. MERCH store: http://farmcraft101.dashery.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/FarmCraft101 Amazon Affiliate Storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101 Buy me a coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/farmcraft101 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/FarmCraft101/ Evolution power tools affiliate link: (promo code: Farmcraft) http://aspireiq.go2cloud.org/aff_c?offer_id=5959&aff_id=16043 Save 5% for yourself and also help out the channel. Thanks! #Detroitdiesel #dieselengine #farmlife #farmcraft101 #farming #farmer
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This is a perfect field trip opportunity for Wes
I thought the fuel pump would be easy compared to the injectors...and in spite of this fuel pump being a royal PIA, that's still probably true! It will be interesting to see what the injectors look like. Have a great weekend everybody!
It has a mechanical gear pump on the back of the governor housing. There is a wep hole on the bottom of it 90% chance not the fuel pump 90% chance it’s one of the injectors. The way to check the system is to pull the valve covers off, pressurize the fuel system to approximately 25 to 30 psi and watch for the fuel to either leak out around the base of the injector because it’s an O-ring or comes out of the injector body itself. I have replaced hundreds of these injectors. The other thing to watch for is if somebody has ran an injector hold down bolt in with oil in the bottom, it will hydraulic and actually crack the head.
On the plus side you’re engine is sludge free now! 😉
Jon, You need a shorter dipstick.
Hi Jon. Another great video. I live in the UK. I'm aged 73. Ever since I found you a year ago, you have amazed me in every vlog; you have the patience of a saint. I had several 2-stroke tools in the shop that didn't work. Due to you. Four of the tools are up and running again. I have even mended a motorcycle that died ten years ago. It's now fully restored and back on the roads of dear old England again. You have inspired me, and thousands of other guys(and gals), not to give up. !!! Keep 'em coming, Jon(That's what she said). Have I spelt you name correctly? All the best, Jon. Dave
I am NOT a professional Detroit mechanic. I am however a professional boat captain (retired). 95% of the boats I ever ran did NOT have professional engineers ... so I had to learn. My experience is with Detroit 71 series engines; 371, 471, 671, and 1671 (which is actually just two 871s connected front to back) Only once in my career I couldn't avoid replacing a severely cracked head on a 471. The local diesel shop convinced me to replace the injectors rather than rebuild them as I naively though was probably "an easy job". At first they tried to sell me a specific tool to set the depth of the replaced injectors that cost as much as the injector itself, but eventually they took pity on me (knowing the penny pincher I worked for) and told me how to use the depth gauge end of a precision caliper to do the job. Replacing old injectors with new or professionally rebuilt injectors is NOT difficult as long as you are super diligent about setting the injector depth and rocker arm gap over the injector plunger to exact specifications. Working on such motors was a whole lot easier for me in a wide open engine room where you could walk around all four sides of the engine. It never required turning your arms into pretzels to get at a bolt. Replacing an injector may not be technically difficult, but doing it here without dropping the engine onto the bench may be a knuckle busting nightmare. P.S. The 1671 on the starboard side of the last boat I ran "made oil" for the three years I ran it. The owner decided it was cheaper to drain the excess and replace the oil (about 14 gallons worth if I remember) when it got too thin or too red. I never knew where the fuel leak was coming from.
you need to keep the IR thermometer closer if you want to get a decent reading. the diameter of the sensing area increases a lot by distance so you were really averaging the temperature of the manifolds, frame and whatever else it saw.
Me : 6.4L powerstroke is the worst diesel ever made!! FarmCraft : I have a Fuel Pincher! Me: oh. sorry.
You're just a whisper away from 700 THOUSAND subscribers!! We love what you do, thanks for bringing us along John!!
Warning! That is not how those thermometers work. the laser is just a pointer. If you look at the back of the meter you will see a little cone shaped hole with a sensor at the bottom. Anything that sensor can 'see' will affect the reading it gives. so the temperature of a lump of metal in front of the exhaust will be included in the measurement. You were mostly measuring the temperature of your steering column. Try to get the sensor close enough so only the bit you want to read is visible to the sensor.
You'd think a big truck like that would have more room to work in the engine!
Betcha the internals on that engine are spotless.
I had *just* resigned myself to a Farm-free Friday but John comes in clutch with the buzzer beater.
hopefully you can test compression before getting to far into the injectors
“I probably shouldn’t have bought this”. I also have a GM dump truck that I have similar feelings about.
Glad you and the cows got some rain.
32:40 - I think I've been watching your videos too much... "Got it in the hole... " as soon as you said that, I knew what was next.
If possible i would advise to check the compression first. Sorry for my english 😅
Man, you always leave us on a cliffhanger! Can't wait till you dig into this in a future episode.